Brittany

9 june 2021 - the 10 worlds of Brittany (F)

Duitsland

9th June 2021 - It's a cool morning. The last stuff is loaded. We leave for our first foreign destination in 2021. Ready to make a tour of Brittany. Brittany is a mosaic of worlds. A wonderful region that simultaneously has a large number of different landscapes, cultures, food dishes! Actually there are ten separate worlds, which show how great the diversity of Brittany is. From the forests in the west, the green interior, the picturesque harbours, to the coast with the famous pink granite rocks. By mainly driving down the coastline we will try to discover all these differences.

Day 1
This is a layover. We stop in Le Tréport on the Alabaster Coast. We already visited this coastal town in 2019 when we were on our way back from a visit to the castles of the Loire. Then we found a place on a motorhome site at the marina.
Now we go to the camper stopover on top of the chalk cliffs. The road to it is steep and we regularly have to stop because of the busy traffic.
It is just then that the hill start assist of the motorhome fails. When I go back I can't go to second gear and the brakes lock up. There you are. On a small road just wide enough to cross another vehicle. No parking option. Wait a few minutes for the brakes to release, resulting in a long traffic jam behind me.
Restart and immediately fail the hill starts again, continue driving in first gear with brakes relocking. Luckily I was able to swerve further ahead to stop and let the traffic through. They passed me angrily honking their horns. I let the engine cool down and in the meantime I was looking for a way to switch off the hill start assistant. Fortunately, it's a setting you can turn on and off. The setting to switch off is unfortunately not stored in the memory and I will therefore have to uncheck it every time I start the motorhome. Hopefully, once we get back home, they can find the cause in a Ford garage. By disabling the function I had no problems the entire journey, although it was sometimes difficult to start uphill.

Once parked on the motorhome site, you can immediately enjoy the beautiful view.

We started with a short walk along the edge of the chalk cliffs, 106 meters above the high tide line!
A local French proverb says: “No arrival "spectacular" in leTréport without "funicular"!
We boarded this free funicular and set out on top of the chalk cliff, then through the rock, over the rooftops, to descend further into the famous fishing quarter. The view from this cabin is just wow!

Nevertheless, we discovered beautiful places that we missed last time when walking through the small streets of “Cordiers”: the wrought iron balconies and the colored bay windows and the beautiful ceramic tiles.

We then continued to stroll through the town and across the pebble beach. From this beach you can really see how high the chalk cliffs are. Very impressive!

We did not spend the night in Le Tréport, but about four kilometers further on at a motorhome stopover of Camping-car Park. I had reserved a place.

Day 2
In the morning we leave for Brittany. At noon we get hungry and find a roadside restaurant that is open. But the kitchen is closed due to the strict corona measures and they only serve sandwiches and salads. We decide to loot our own fridge anyway. After about 400 km we are in Brittany and start in the region of Saint-Malo. We have arrived in the historic town of Dinan. We settle at the municipal campsite. In the afternoon we walk about 500 meters to the center of Dinan. We enter the city via the old city walls and the castle. We stroll through the narrow streets with its half-timbered houses with gables and nice shops.

In the steep Rue Du Jerzual you will be immersed in the atmosphere of the Middle Ages. We stroll past the boutique workshops of the glassblowers and gilders who are located there.

Further on we arrive at the Place des Cordeliers et des Merciers. Here you can see how the styles flow together. The half-timbered houses from the 15th, 16th and 17th centuries are close together and are characteristic of Dinan. Nearby is the basilica Saint-Sauveur. The style is a mix of Byzantine, Persian and Roman influences. The unique thing is that she was never finished. Our walk continues along the Tour de l'Horloge (belfry from the 15th century), the Saint-Malo church and a monastery from the 13th century (Couvent des Cordeliers). We enjoy the afternoon on a terrace. For dinner we took our precautions and reserved a place at the start of our walk in what seemed to us a nice restaurant.

That evening we had a fantastic dinner in restaurant “Le Cosy”. A limited menu, but delicious.

Day 3
Today we visit the old town "Intra-Muros" of Saint-Malo. Literally "within the walls". From Dinan (where we stayed 2 nights at the simple municipal campsite) we took a direct bus to Saint-Malo. At the station square we ate a pizza and then we walked towards the old town. From afar we saw the imposing city walls rise above the rest in the area. Today it is a tourist attraction, but in the past the city was also notorious as an important pirate town.

We enter the city through the Saint-Vincent gate. Within the ramparts, the towering shipowners' houses stand stately along the narrow streets and offer a dark, closed but unique view. The many tourists stroll along the shops and restaurants. It seemed as if they all had a stiff neck from looking up too much.

After we had visited the main sights, we decided to take a walk on the old city walls. The city wall is not for nothing the most popular sights of Saint-Malo.
The wall is 2 km long and leads from bastion to bastion.
On one side of the ramparts are the narrow streets of the city. On the other side you have a magnificent view over the beaches, the harbor and the fortresses.
At low tide, the sand dries up to the islands of the Grand Bé and Petit Bé. And since it was low tide we could walk on the beach to the island with the fortress "Le Petit Bé".

Day 4
On our world tour in Brittany we arrive at Cap Fréhel. The weather is beautiful and the sun is shining brightly despite it being early afternoon. From the 70m high cliffs, I think we have one of the most beautiful views of Brittany. An exceptional and unique natural site with a bird sanctuary and a hiking trail leading to the famous fortress of La Latte. The cape also offers one of the most extensive moors in Europe and a majestic 103 meter lighthouse.
For us this is enjoyment. The jagged rocks, and breathtaking views of the sea. The rocks are home to hundreds of sea birds. About twenty bird species live in the cliffs.

We climbed the steep steps of the lighthouse. But the result was worth it. We enjoyed the panorama. On a clear day you can even see the isle of Jersey.
A walk along the coastal path to the fort La Latte was a little too much for us. A one and a half hour walk.
Sitting on the edge of the cliffs we enjoyed further. Blessed!

The only downside is the parking. Two large car parks for passenger cars. Outside there are barely 6 places for motorhomes! Many campers were forced to return without a visit. Also on the narrow access road you could not leave your camper anywhere.
The rest of the day we enjoyed the good weather and went to a camping-car Park motorhome stopover in Fréhel. I had reserved a place for the night.

Day 5
We leave the côte d'Emeraude and drive to the heart of Brittany "Kalon Breizh", Breton for "welcome to the heart of Brittany". Another world away from the coast. We take a break and stay 2 days at Lake Guerlédan.

So, set up for a warm two-day at the lake. It is a quiet campsite. We had a spacious corner place and the trees provided sufficient shade and cooling.

With temperatures above 30°C, we take a short walk by the lake and soon enjoy the coolness of the Cornec forest, which is located on the lake.

06.08.2018 - Hochschwarzwald

05/08/2018: alles ingeladen, de watertank voor een derde gevuld… Op naar het Zwarte Woud. Meer specifiek het zuiden en dit tot in Waldshut aan de grens met Zwitserland, het “Hochschwarzwald”. 20 jaar geleden waren we er al en een tweede bezoek is het zeker waard. De startafstand (625 km) die we normaal in één dag doen, doen we nu rustiger aan. De eerste middag brengen we door in Mehring, een mooi dorp aan de Moezel. De camperplaats (met zijn restaurant) ligt pal aan het water. Gelukkig, ondanks of dank zij de hitte zijn er geen muggen.
Meer moest dat niet zijn. Luieren in een stoel aan het water, even wandelen en dan rustig een glaasje drinken op het terras van het plaatselijke restaurant.

Dag 2
We rijden richting Titisee. We hadden gereserveerd op camping Bühlhof. De bedoeling was om er een aantal dagen ter plaatse te overnachten. De camping is boven een berg gelegen en de weg er naartoe is zeer steil. Een ideale omgeving voor … berggeiten. De 170 pk van de mobilhome was meer dan welkom. De camping is oud maar zeer net, de plaatsen best ruim doch zeker niet vlak. Na de installatie verkennen we de camping en genieten nog na van een mooie avond.

Dag 3
Vandaag wandelen we naar het stadje Titisee aan het gelijknamige meer. Erheen wandelen is, ondanks de hitte, geen probleem. Terugkeren was een ander paar mouwen. Het gedeelte van de grote baan naar de camping was zoals eerder gezegd, een echte kuitenbijter en niet een baantje om meerdere keren per dag te voet af te leggen.
De Titisee is het meest toeristische meer van het Zwarte Woud. Een prachtig natuurlijk meer op een hoogte van zowat 840 meter. In het plaatsje zelf vind je talrijke winkels, restaurants. Het is er heerlijk vertoeven. In de hoofdstraat zijn veel souvenir winkels gelegen, waar je veel producten uit het zwarte woud zoals hammen en kersenmarmelade vindt, en heel veel koekoeksklokken. We konen niet weerstaan aan de streekproducten en kochten zwarte woudham en ‘wald’honing! Geoefende wandelaars kunnen rond het meer wandelen. Het pas is ongeveer 7 km lang. Op het meer kan je leuke boottochten maken. Met een excursieboot, roeibootje, pedalo, of een electrisch bootje. Het is ook een luchtkuuroord. Het is niet het grootste meer, dat is de Schluchsee.

Dag 4
Het is een weertje om luilekker te genieten op de camping. Ondanks de hoge temperaturen besluit ik, Dirk, om in de namiddag een wandeling te maken. Eén die start op de camping. Het pad naar de rand van het bos was al zeer steil. Toen ik boven aan de rand van het bos kwam, was ik blij dat ik even kon verpozen op een bankje. Een prachtig panoramisch zicht en wandelen tussen de koeien. Dat is het zwarte woud ten top. ’s Nachts zorgt een stevig onweer ervoor dat alles opgefrist wordt.

Dag 5
Freiburg de belangrijkste stad van het Zwarte Woud. Het is nog steeds zeer warm. Net aan de rand van de stad parkeren we op een grote camperplaats. Na een stevige wandeling (terugkeren doen we wijselijk met de tram) nemen we een kijkje in de talrijke historische straten en wandelen langs stadspoorten, de vele stadhuizen, marktpleinen, door winkelstraten en ... langs de beken! Ja, wel opletten als je in de straten van het centrum kuiert. In vele straten liggen nog kleine open beken (Bächle).
De Münsterkerk neemt prominent haar plaats in. In de Kaiser Joseph Strasse zijn vele grote warenhuizen gelegen.

Terwijl we op een terras genoten van een lekkere maaltijd werden we verrast door zowaar een windhoos. Deze trok over gans Freiburg. De zware parasols waaiden allen om, kleinere kozen het luchtruim. Servieten, tafellakens, stoelkussens, en zelfs stoelen gingen vliegen. We moesten in allerijl onze borden nemen en in het restaurant vluchten. Na twee minuten was alles voorbij en scheen de zon weer. Nu nog wat winkelen (eindelijk) en dan de tram op. Dit gratis! Dankzij onze KONUS gastenkaart.

Wanneer op je vakantie bent in het Zwarte Woud krijg je op campings of in je hotel of gastenverblijf een Konus gastenkaart.

De uitdrukking “KONUS” komt van de vroegere universele sleutel die trein conducteurs ooit gebruikten om bussen en treinstellen te openen. Deze uitdrukking staat voor gratis gebruik van openbaar vervoer voor bezoekers aan het gehele Zware Woud. Er zijn enige uitzonderingen.
Na aankomst op je vakantiebestemming kun je je voertuig laten staan en brengt het openbaar vervoer (bus, tram, trein, om het even) je naar elke plaats die je wenst, zonder je zorgen te hoeven maken over een parkeerplaats.

Meer info over deze kaart vind je op: zwartewoud.info

Overnachten doen we voor de laatste maal op camping Bühlhof in Titisee.

Dag 6
Triberg bezoeken bleek niet mogelijk door een totaal gebrek aan parkeerplaatsen, de massa toeristen en overal achtergelaten fietsen. De bedoeling was om er een bezoek te brengen, niet alleen aan het “Schwarzwaldmuseum” maar ook aan de grootste winkel met koekoeksklokken. We rijden dan maar door naar Schonach voor een bezoekje aan de tot voor kort, grootste koekoeksklok ter wereld en vervolgens verder naar de Schluchsee. In Schluchsee vinden we nog net een plaats op de camperplaats. Deze is net aan het gelijknamige stuwmeer gelegen. Het meer is drie maal groter dan de Titisee maar niet zo toeristisch uitgebaa(ui)t. Dit is onze overnachtingsplaats voor de komende 2 nachten.

Dag 7
Na een bezoek aan en een wandeling rond het leuke stadje gaan we ’s middags varen op het meer met de rondvaartboot. Een boot die drie haltes rond het meer aandoet. Vanaf die haltes kan je mooie wandelingen aan en rond het meer maken. Zoals gewoonlijk is er geen Nederlandstalige info (wel Chinees) aan boord, maar als je goed luistert kan je wel iets meepikken van de Duitstalige rondleiding. Tenzij je natuurlijk geniet van een stuk taart, een ijsje of iets vloeibaars op de boot…

Dag 8
Onze reis gaat verder naar Waldshut, een klein oud stadje aan de Rijn en tegen de grens met Zwitserland. De mooie (luxe) camperplaats ligt naast de camping (waarvan de douches en toiletten ook voor de campers zijn) en heeft alle faciliteiten. Via een korte wandeling langs de Rijn kom je in het stadje vol fraaie oude vakwerkhuizen, mooie winkels en terrasjes in de verkeersvrije Kaiserstrasse, die aan beide zijden omsloten wordt door een markante stadspoorttoren. In het midden van de straat stroomt door een stenen goot water. Ook zijn er drie moderne fonteinen.
Op het terras van een patisserie genoten we van dé taart van de streek: zwarte woudtaart; heerlijk!

Dag 9
We wippen even de Zwitserse grens over en bezoeken de Rijnwatervallen in Schaffhausen. Er is een parking (P4) voorzien voor campers maar zoals gewoonlijk staan er ook vele personenauto’s tussen. Vroeg toekomen is de boodschap! Je mag overnachten op de parking, maar het is er zeer duur. Waarschijnlijk komt dit door de dure Zwitserse frank!

De “Rheinfall” zijn de grootste watervallen van Europa. Je voelt het gebulder van het water door je hele lichaam. Je kan er met een boot naar de kastelen, in het bekken van de Rijnwaterval en zelfs naar het terras op de rots in het midden.
Je wordt er getrakteerd op een gratis, ijskoude douche door het opspattende water. Het is een indrukwekkend schouwspel.

Day 6
It's another sweltering day. This morning we walk through the forest and the road to the dam of Guerlédan. The last stretch to the dam rises steadily at 7%. Quite difficult in that heat, and nowhere near a terrace to enjoy a refreshment. At the foot of the dam, a steep climb along the path "le sentier de Guerlédan" leads to high above the dam. Monique wisely decided to stay downstairs and found a place in the shade. I started the climb full of confidence. Soon I had to take a break. A class of young schoolchildren passed me loudly and they climbed bravely. Yes, 50 years ago I could have done this too. I still managed to get to the top. I was exhausted, but the view was extraordinarily beautiful.
Descending was a lot easier and the way back to the campsite was also downhill. Our only activity in the afternoon was lazily lying in the garden chair and enjoying.

Fun fact: every 10 years the lake is drained and the former village of slate workers appears at the bottom.

Tomorrow we leave the interior and look for the coolness of the coast again.

Day 7
What should definitely not be missing from your program in Brittany is the "Côte de Granit Rose". A unique coastline with shiny pink granite rocks, really beautiful! In 2015 we stayed there for three weeks and visited, among others: Perros-Guirec, Ploumanac'h, le sentier des douaniers, a boat trip to "les sept Iles", where hundreds of thousands of gannets and puffins breed. We also visited Trégastel, Tréguier, Trébeurden, Ile Grande, Saint-Brieuc, Lannion, Guingamp, Brest, Ile Bréhat and Paimpol.

The only place we now visit in this wonderful world is Roscoff, one of the “petites cités de caractère” (characteristic towns). It is built on a peninsula and overlooks the English Channel. You will find beautiful, richly decorated houses of shipowners, a church in the style of flamboyant Gothic… An attractive city, which is both a seaside resort and harbour.

The parking spaces are all located on the quays of the port. However, these are packed. The few places reserved for motorhomes are occupied by regular vans and passenger cars. We drive further along the quays and see a chapel rising high above the harbour. We drive there and it appears that there are two large free parking spaces. Place enough on the one unpaved parking lot. We were there alone.
The white chapel of Sainte-Barbe is located on top of the rock and from here you have one of the most beautiful views of the bay. They work built in 1619.

We walk back to the old port. It was a little further than initially planned, but we were still in time to take the boat to Ile de Batz at the quay.
After fifteen minutes of sailing we ended up in a completely different world. Due to its amazingly mild climate beautiful tropical trees grow, it seems as if you are on the Côte d'Azur.
If you follow the coastal path, you can walk around the isle in half a day. As the saying goes: “all roads lead to Rome”, on “Ile de Batz”, all roads lead to the sea. We not only walk along the coastal path, but also venture into the narrow streets of the island. It is very quiet there. Cars aren't allowed. Every now and then you have to pull over for a tractor.
It is in these streets that you see how prosperous the island was in the early 19th century, thanks to the sailors who sailed all over the world. We stroll past the very beautiful stone houses with an upper floor, surrounded by high walls, proof of the wealth of the captains on the high seas.
In the narrow inner streets are some nice restaurants. We find a place on a raised terrace. The Irish steak was delectable.

Back on the coastal path we continue walking to the lighthouse. We couldn't climb it. It is only open for a few hours on Saturdays. But those who can climb the 44m high tower will be rewarded with a beautiful view.

Towards the end of the afternoon we took the boat back to the mainland. It was low tide when we got back from the island. Only then was it clear how big the difference is between high and low water. Roscoff harbour had completely dried up. The landing stage of the ferry is a long way from the quay where we left. A jetty that was absolutely not visible on departure. It was a beautiful sight. A column of people, several with suitcases, on their way to the quay.

The difference between high and low water in Brittany can be between eight and twelve meters, making it the largest tidal difference in Europe. On the Côte d'Armor, the difference is on average 7.5 m. A difference that we are confronted with several times during our trip, and it is always surprising and impressive.

We walk through the historic centre of Roscoff for a while. The open bell tower of the church is an eye-catcher. Then walk back to the parking lot.

In the evening we enjoy the beautiful beach 50m from the motorhome where we spent the rest of the evening. Crossing a narrow ridge of dunes and we were in an idyllic location. It looked like our private beach. It was completely deserted and in the setting sun it was blissful sitting on a boulder and staring at the sea.

Day 8
We drive into the world around Brest to visit the charming hamlet of Menez-Ham. We already discovered Brest in 2015. The city is dominated by the Fort and its harbor. The city itself looks modern, but is not very cosy. Brest is ideal for shoppers. The city has a long, wide shopping street.

"Le village de Meneham" is a lovely, picturesque fishing village with grassy dunes and a unique atmosphere. It's nestled behind huge boulders with weird shapes.
The attractive thatched cottages from the 17th century have been beautifully restored. Behind the boulders we discovered one surprise after another. The houses were built between and behind the blocks to protect against raids and against the wind and waves.
In one of the houses there is a museum located. You will learn more about the evolution from lookout, to barracks, to fishing village… In 1970, when the café closed, the last activity in the village disappeared. The last resident left in 1979.

The guardhouse on top of a dune and between the rocks oversaw the entire area. Every activity at sea could be observed there. From the house and from the rock I had a beautiful panoramic view.
It is also the most photographed house in the area and these photos can be found on many postcards and in many tourist guides.

After our walk between and over the rocks and on the beach we relaxed on the terrace of the restaurant and this with the drink from Brittany: a very tasty cider, served in a nice cup.

Day 9
We are again on steep cliffs. This on "Pointe Saint-Mathieu", one of the westernmost points of Brittany. The lighthouse watches over the ruins of the old abbey.
The wind is blowing around our ears on these rugged rocks. Not as idyllic as Cap Fréhel but still impressive. Brittany in its original form.
Only the facade, the stone vaults of the choir and the arched gallery of the central nave remain of the abbey. In the evening you would get a mysterious image because it is then illuminated by the lighthouse.
Again we were unlucky, the lighthouse is also closed here.
Next to the lighthouse is a newer signal tower. This is located on a military site and is not accessible to the public.

We continue on our way and a little further we settle at the Plougonvelin motorhome stopover on the Bay of Biscay.

Monique takes a break that afternoon and I walk along the coastal path to the fortress of Berthaume. This is located 800m from the motorhome pitch. I walk on the edge of the cliffs and have a nice view of the ocean. In the rock wall I discover a cave. Barbed wire prevents people from clambering to it. The fort itself is located on an island that is connected to the mainland by a footbridge. Its strategic location on steep cliffs made it relatively easy to defend for centuries.
Again corona is a bummer. The measures prevented me from visiting the site and the fortress. It didn't reopen until 3 July 2021.
On the way back, hidden between the rocks, I found the nice sandy beach of this Breton town. After a while I came back to our camper, where Monique calmly continued to read her book.

Day 10
We discover a new world: Cornouaille, the region for artists and for everyone who loves tasty things. The first town we visit is Locronan, one of the most beautiful villages in France.
We brave the capricious weather and visit the old city center. Cars must stay outside the center and the shops are indicated with traditional signs. The many drab-looking houses house artists and craftsmen and have been the setting for historical films many times. Gray because they are all built in granite stones. Golden when the sun shines on it.
The Eglise Saint-Ronan and the chapel of the Pénity stand side by side and share a common facade. Furthermore, we arrive at the central square with its old wells.
Of course we had to stop at one of the bakeries. We could not resist the specialty of the region, the "kouign-amman" an amazing Breton cake with lots of butter and sugar.

Just outside the city centre a steep road leads to “La Chapelle Notre-Dame de Bonne Nouvelle”. A chapel from the 15th – 17th century with, for that time, very modern-looking stained glass windows. Descending to the chapel was no problem. Returning was something else! Pfffff...

To conclude, we had a few names engraved on decorated perfume bottles by a glass artist.

’s Namiddags keren we terug naar Waldshut en de camperplaats voor de nacht. In het stadje krijgen we een stevige regenbui. Lang leve de ijssalons als schuilplaats. Ook de porties ijs zijn van Duits formaat, gewoon reusachtig.

Dag 10
Een panoramaroute liep langs de schilderachtige valleien en heuvels van het Zwarte Woud. Langs plaatsjes zoals Hochenschwand, Todnau, Bernau, Feldberg, en via Titisee (waar we toch maar een koekoeksklok kopen) rijden we verder naar Altglashütten. De camperplaats ligt net buiten het dorp naast de spoorweg (gelukkig net buiten gebruik wegens herstellingswerken – normaal twee treinen per dag). Het dorp is de dag van vandaag bekend als skioord, doch heeft zijn ontstaan te danken aan de bouw van een glasfabriek in 1609. Vele glasblazers vestigden zich er. Het heeft een mooie kerk en één van de weinige resterende glasblazerijen. De man zit gewoon in zijn winkel te werken. Er zijn prachtige dingen te koop van kleine juweeltjes (ringen, oorbellen, diertjes) tot glazen, vazen enz. En de prijzen zijn zeer schappelijk. De omgeving nodigt uit tot het maken van lange wandelingen.

Dag 11
De laatste dag van ons bezoek aan het Zwarte Woud rijden we terug huiswaarts. Niet rechtstreeks. Opnieuw nemen we een tussenstop aan de Moezel. Dit keer trekken we naar Minheim (het zonne-eiland), een klein maar romantische wijndorpje verscholen aan een bocht in het schitterende Moezel landschap. Het dorp telt 452 inwoners en maar liefst 13 wijnhuizen.
De camperplaats (90 plaatsen), ligt vlak aan de rivier. Mooi, rustig, ruime plaatsen met alle voorzieningen (water, elektriciteit en loospunt). ’s Morgens brengt de bakker het daags voordien bestelde brood en koeken. Tussen de wijngaarden en wijnhuizen tref je er enkele restaurants en één winkel (van diezelfde bakker, tevens een minisupermarkt met een relatief ruim assortiment aan taart, charcuterie, groenten, fruit, kranten, boekjes en zelfs postzegels!). Tijdens ons bezoek heerste er een gezellige sfeer en drukte. Het was feest in het dorp met orkestjes die speelden op de pleinen, en drank- en wijnstandjes alom.

Dag 12
Na het optrekken van de ochtendmist die in slierten over het water hing, scheen het zonnetje opnieuw heerlijk. We besloten om toch terug naar huis te rijden.

We waren blij dat we deze streek na al de jaren, toch nog eens bezocht hebben. Terugkeren naar het Zwarte Woud is altijd leuk en aangenaam om te verblijven.

Overzicht overnachtingen

Camperplaats Wohnmobilstellplatz del Mosel – Mehring: bij boerderij/wijnboer - 72 plaatsen – 10€ - men komt ter plaatse ontvangen tussen 17 en 18u. Servicevoorzieningen water: 1€ - stroom: 2€. Mooie, rustige ligging. Ideaal aan het water. Restaurant met groot terras aan de camperplaats.

Camping Bühlhof - Hinterzarten (Titisee): 27,75€/nacht (toeristenbelastingen stroom inbegrepen). Oudere camping maar wel zeer netjes en goed onderhouden. Geen specifieke plaatsen voor motorhomes. Wel alle voorzieningen. Zeer ruime plaatsen van 120 m². Op het ogenblik dat wij er waren was het er niet zo rustig. Veel kleine tentjes en groepen. Maakten nogal wat lawaai. De weg naar de camping is zeer steil.

Officiële camperplaats Parking Aqua Fun – Schluchsee: 22 plaatsen, doch er staan ook veel campers op de rest van de parking – 10€ betaalautomaat. Normaal moet je je toeristenbelasting betaling in het toerismebureau van Schluchsee. Wij gingen er op zondag informeren. Gezien ze geen formulieren meer hadden dienden we niet te betalen. Men was verwonderd dat we wilden betalen. Nooit komt iemand van de camperplaats toeristenbelasting betalen!
Servicevoorzieningen water: 1€ - stroom: 1€/8u. ’s Avonds zeer rustig.

Camperpark Wohmobil-Park - Waldshut-Tiengen: 44 plaatsen – 12€ betaalautomaat. Servicevoorzieningen: water 1€/100l – stroom: 1€/kwh. De camperplaats is luxueus afgewerkt! De camperplaatsen zijn voorzien voor verschillende lengtes. Zo staan bvb alle vans samen. Aan de overzijde van de straat is de camping gelegen. Je mag er alle sanitaire voorzieningen gebruiken. Er is ook een groot restaurant.

Officiële camperplaats – Altglashütten (Feldberg): 16 plaatsen – 8€ aan betaalautomaat. Servicevoorzieningen: water 1€/100l – stroom: 1€/8u. Zeer rustige camperplaats. Ideaal als je op doorreis bent. Aan het begin van de parking is een café-restaurant gelegen. Dit is ook het station waar je een trein kan nemen.

Camperpark Reisemobilpark Sonneninsel – Minheim: 90 plaatsen – 7,20€, men komt ter plaatse ontvangen rond 18u. Servicevoorzieningen: water 1€/100l – stroom: 1€/2 kwh. Er is ’s morgens een broodjesservice, verzorgd door de lokale bakker.

9 june 2021 - the 10 worlds of Brittany (F)

Day 11
On to the next town further along the coastline. Today we stroll through the streets of Quimper, known for its pottery products painted in a bright style. The spiers of the Saint-Corentin Cathedral are visible from almost every street. The beautiful, old half-timbered houses in the narrow streets bear witness to a rich past. The suggestive names of the streets and alleys appeal to the imagination and refer to that past. We walk through the Rue des Boucheries (one of the most beautiful houses in Quimper is located there), the Rue du Sallé and the beautiful “Place au Beurre”. The cathedral is definitely worth a visit. Beyond the portal you can see beautiful stained glass windows.

It has become a habit to end an afternoon on a terrace. This time with a delicious ice cream coupe. Meanwhile, French residents rushed to the cafes and bars with TV screens for a match in the group stage of the European Championship between France and Hungary.

Day 12
The walled medieval town of Concarneau is on the program. The name of the town of Concarneau is derived from the Breton Konk-Kerne, meaning "Bay of Cornwall". This is not surprising, because the city is located where the English Channel, the Celtic Sea and the Bay of Biscay meet.

The city consists of two parts: the modern city on the mainland and the medieval Concarneau “La Ville Close”. This is a walled city, located on a long island in the heart of the harbour. The old town functioned as a centre of shipbuilding for a long time.
We were able to experience first-hand that the old town is one of the most visited places in Brittany and a very popular place for tourists. This is the busiest place on our trip so far. Yet it is a pleasant crowd.

Tip: during the summer months it is best to plan your visit to this city in the morning. In the afternoon you can literally walk over the heads.

We enter the “Ville Close” via a bridge that connects it to the new city. Striking when entering is the bell tower and sundial. In the old town you actually have one artery: the Rue Vauban. Tangible historical heritage is interspersed with various shops and restaurants. These have city-style signboards. Cobbled streets on either side of the street lead down to the fishing harbour. At the end of the Rue Vauban we arrive at the Place Saint-Guénolé. You will find an authentic fountain there.

When you browse through tourist guides you will always find the following suggestion at Concarneau: End your visit with a "plat de fruits de mer".
We started our visit with it! One of the better fish restaurants in Concarneau was recommended to us by some local residents, the restaurant “la Croisière”. This is located on the harbour quay in the new city. We were lucky, they still had a table available for us Belgians. The other tables were all reserved. We didn't regret a second. The dish was delicious! A few times the "patron" himself came to ask us if it tasted. Our facial expressions spoke volumes. This to his great satisfaction.

Day 13
We have arrived in South Brittany. On the Gulf of Morbihan, we settle in Carnac. Not on the beach, but about four km inland.

We visit the landmark of the region. Megaliths galore. More than 3000 menhirs are in rows of 1 km! However, Obelix (from the comic series Asterix) has nothing to do with it. They are said to be over 5000 years old. So long before the Gauls! How did they get there and why? Several theories, up to the most hilarious ones, try to explain these monuments. But still remains a mystery.

Next to those impressive rows is the burial mound of Saint-Michel. We did not come across the “Giant from Manio”, a menhir with a height of 6.50 m. We have not covered all rows. Walking between the menhirs is prohibited. The entire site is closed off with a fence. The only ones allowed inside the enclosure are sheep (of a very old, almost extinct breed) that graze peacefully among the megaliths.

Day 14
Today we walk through the small centre of La Roche-Bernard. Created when the Viking Bern-Hart was looking for a place of defence and built his fortress tower around the year 1000 on the rocky promontory overlooking the river Vilaine. Port activity increased and flourished. Trade could be conducted safely.

The old alleys, with the occasional staircase, are lined with houses from the 16th and 17th centuries. We walk through the artists' and crafts district. However, most shops are closed with a note on the door: “if you need me, just give me a call, I'm close by”. The display windows are filled with works of art made of glass, ceramics, paintings, collages and leather goods. The passage of the Quenelle leads to the beautiful “Place du Bouffay” with its town hall.

We then continue walking towards the harbour. On top of the rock are the remains of the old fortress. Two old cannons and from where you have a nice overview of the river and the surrounding valley.
The port has become a heritage, a place of tradition… thanks to the construction of the Arzal dam, it is now a nice marina and ideal for a break on a terrace. We didn't have to walk far after that. Stand up, up the path, step through the hedge and we were at the campsite.

Day 15
The world around the Loire, is where the river flows into the Atlantic Ocean. Our destination is Guérande. The massive fortress walls are somewhat reminiscent of Carcassonne. Behind the walls is a cosy old centre hidden. You enter through one of the four gates. We take the main entrance, the gate St-Michel. We stroll through the winding streets to the centre of the city centre. Like most towns we visit, Guérande is not big. The main street Rue de Saillé cuts the core in half. The old houses with bay windows, wooden panels and ornate dormer windows actually transport you to the Middle Ages. The many shops makes it cosy and pleasant. A terrace on the “Place Jean XXIII” should not be missed either.

Salt has been mined in Guérande from time immemorial. Surrounding the city is a vast grid of salt marshes. Of course the "Fleur de Sel" is offered in many places. We have already taken our stock.

Day 16
We enter the last world of our tour of Brittany - Brocéliande. A world of historic places and vast forests. Our first destination is Malestroit.

Via the banks of the river Oust we walk from the campsite to the centre of the town, which is located in a bend of the river.
We wander through the narrow streets and past the impressive houses. Here and there we spot special wooden figures on the old facades. Figures from medieval tales (the purring sow, the hare playing the bagpipes, a pelican…) The heart of Malestroit is the “Place du Bouffay”, where we settle down on a terrace as the last stop of the day. From our seats, all we have to do is look up to see the traces that recall a past of crusades and flourishing trade. On the other side of the square is the church, dedicated to Saint-Gille. Special paintings have recently been discovered on the vaults.

Day 17
Today we settle at the campsite of Paimpont. The clouds start to increase more and more. Dark rain clouds do not bode well. We are not deterred and dive from the entrance of the campsite into the immense forest of Brocéliande, the largest forest in Brittany.

Beforehand, we walked for a while along the lake that forms the setting for a beautiful abbey from the 13th century. In the Abbey Church we see an altar decorated with gold leaf, fourteen statuettes and six pillars supporting a crown. It is considered the most impressive in Brittany.

At the edge of the forest, hidden in the reeds of the lake, hundreds of croaking frogs disturb the tranquillity of the ancient trees of the forest.

When we got back to the campsite in the evening, the weather deteriorated and we gets heavy rainfall. It continued to rain all night long.

Day 18
It is still raining. It is cold and wet. The weather forecast is downright bad and should remain so for the next few days in this part of Brittany.

We had planned to visit the places Rennes and Vitré, but the last stage of the Tour de France, in Brittany, crosses our route. The roads are closed and we can no longer reach the motorhome pitches.

Add to that we have water seepage into the motorhome. Presumably from the roof, the water trickles down the wall of the motorhome into my bed. Fortunately my mattress is not wet yet, the duvet has absorbed most of the water.

For those reasons, we decide to return home.

Day 19
After a rainy day, we make a stopover in Honfleur, a nice place that we already visited in 2018 during our tour of Normandy.
Fortunately, we do not need an umbrella or raincoat and it is once again wonderful to stroll through the picturesque streets. It was fun to discover new places. Like everyone else, we end at 'Le Vieux Bassin' (the old harbour basin). An idyllic place with its many old houses with beautiful facades, boutiques and restaurants. There is a pleasant bustle and it is wonderful to relax on one of the many terraces.

The next day we drive home, where we can look back on a wonderful journey, a true discovery of the different worlds of Brittany.

Summary overnight stays

Aire de camping-car park de Flocques - 1 rue des Pommiers, 76260 Flocques – GPS : 50.034695°, 1.361022° - 30pl/10.78€ – all amenities – on the banks of the “La Manche” – 3km from Le Tréport

Camping municipal Chateaubriand - Rue Châteaubriand, 22100 Dinan – small campsite 48pl/14€ - all amenities (no waste water discharge) – 500m from the center – very helpful owners. From this campsite we went by bus to Saint-Malo. Very easy and direct connection to Saint-Malo station.

Aire de camping-car park de Fréhel - La Ville Oie, 22240 Fréhel - GPS : N 48.650627° W 2.353177° - 45pl/10.40€ - all amenities

Camping Le Point de vue - rue du lac 104, Mûr de Bretagne, 22530 Guerlédan – 18€/night acsi (we only had to pay 34€ for 2 nights tourist tax included) – all amenities – located on the lake – arrival from 2 pm – quiet campsite and friendly owners.

Aire de camping-car park de Cléder - Le Poulennou, Cléder - GPS : n48.691896 w4.119523 – 20pl/12.60€ - all amenities – 50m from the beach – it was wonderful to sit on that beach in the evening

Aire de Camping-Car de Ménéham – Lestonquet, Kerlouan GPS: n48.66952 w4.36161 – 50pl/8€ - all amenities, electricity 3.5€/24h – 900m to the meneham site

Official motorhome parking - Rue de Bertheaume, Plougonvelin - GPS: n48.33792 w4.70742 – 80pl/9€ - all amenities included – 800m to fortress – pitches are spacious enough – little shade

Campsite Locronan - Rue de la Troménie 10, Locronan – €17.10/night – all amenities – 800m to the center – beautiful places, we had a pitch with a sea view

Camping municipal du bois du séminaire - Avenue des Oiseaux, Quimper – 15€/night – all amenities – office closed on Wednesdays – 1,8km from the center

Camping Les Sables Blancs - avenue du Dorlet 17, Concarneau – 20€/night acsi – all amenities – 1.7km from the center – spacious pitches – terraced campsite with stairs between the levels – indoor swimming pool available

Camping de Kerabus - Allée des Alouettes 13, Carnac – €18/night acsi (€19.20 TTB included) – all amenities – nice cozy campsite – narrow streets with plane trees on the sides and on the pitches. The trees sometimes make it difficult to maneuver

Camping municipal Le Patis - chemin du Patis 3, La Roche-Bernard – €15.15/night – all amenities – 200m from the tourist office – we were on one of the camper pitches in front of the campsite

Official motorhome parking - Avenue de la Brière, Guérande - GPS: n47.33389 w2.42083 – 25pl/free – facilities without electricity – 900m to the center – salt pans 3 km from the center

Camping Les Rives de l'Oust - Rue des Tanneurs, Malestroit – 15.5€/night – all amenities – 500m from the center – very quiet campsite – we had a very large pitch – although it was the end of June, few places were taken

Camping municipal de Paimpont - rue du Chevalier Lancelot du Lac, Paimpont – 16.90€/night - office 8.30am to 12.30pm – service point camper near the campsite – all amenities – our corner pitch was also very large

Bassin de l'Est - Official motorhome parking - Quai de la cale, 14600 Honfleur – 240pl/11€ - all amenities included - pay attention! Slightly less than half of the pitches have electricity – we were always lucky and had electricity – very large motorhome where everyone is close to each other – gravel surface but when it rains large puddles form on and between the pitches – ideal for 1 night and for a visit to Honfleur which is located 500m from the camp

We couldn't stay overnight in every place we visited. Below you will find the car parks where we could go with the motorhome:

Le Tréport: is an official motorhome site on top of the rocks, but we only parked there. The price was the same as in a regular parking lot. Quai Sadi Carnot, 76470, Le Tréport – 7€/52pl – facilities without electricity - GPS: n50.05777 o1.36222

Cap Fréhel: parking - Route du Cap, 22240 Fréhel – 5€ for motorhomes

Pointe Saint-Mathieu: free parking at the lighthouse, just past Rue Antre Kéar, Plougonvelin. There can be about 10 motorhomes. Otherwise there are still possibilities in the area. Parking is not a problem in the low season.

E-mail: info@dmcamperreizen.be

Salt has been mined in Guérande from time immemorial. Surrounding the city is a vast grid of salt marshes. Of course the "Fleur de Sel" is offered in many places. We have already taken our stock.

The next day we drive home, where we can look back on a wonderful journey, a true discovery of the different worlds of Brittany.

Summary overnight stays

Aire de camping-car park de Flocques - 1 rue des Pommiers, 76260 Flocques – GPS : 50.034695°, 1.361022° - 30pl/10.78€ – all amenities – on the banks of the “La Manche” – 3km from Le Tréport

Camping municipal Chateaubriand - Rue Châteaubriand, 22100 Dinan – small campsite 48pl/14€ - all amenities (no waste water discharge) – 500m from the center – very helpful owners. From this campsite we went by bus to Saint-Malo. Very easy and direct connection to Saint-Malo station.

Aire de camping-car park de Fréhel - La Ville Oie, 22240 Fréhel - GPS : N 48.650627° W 2.353177° - 45pl/10.40€ - all amenities

Camping Le Point de vue - rue du lac 104, Mûr de Bretagne, 22530 Guerlédan – 18€/night acsi (we only had to pay 34€ for 2 nights tourist tax included) – all amenities – located on the lake – arrival from 2 pm – quiet campsite and friendly owners.

Aire de camping-car park de Cléder - Le Poulennou, Cléder - GPS : n48.691896 w4.119523 – 20pl/12.60€ - all amenities – 50m from the beach – it was wonderful to sit on that beach in the evening

Aire de Camping-Car de Ménéham – Lestonquet, Kerlouan GPS: n48.66952 w4.36161 – 50pl/8€ - all amenities, electricity 3.5€/24h – 900m to the meneham site

Official motorhome parking - Rue de Bertheaume, Plougonvelin - GPS: n48.33792 w4.70742 – 80pl/9€ - all amenities included – 800m to fortress – pitches are spacious enough – little shade
Campsite Locronan - Rue de la Troménie 10, Locronan – €17.10/night – all amenities – 800m to the center – beautiful places, we had a pitch with a sea view

Camping municipal du bois du séminaire - Avenue des Oiseaux, Quimper – 15€/night – all amenities – office closed on Wednesdays – 1,8km from the center

Camping Les Sables Blancs - avenue du Dorlet 17, Concarneau – 20€/night acsi – all amenities – 1.7km from the center – spacious pitches – terraced campsite with stairs between the levels – indoor swimming pool available

Camping de Kerabus - Allée des Alouettes 13, Carnac – €18/night acsi (€19.20 TTB included) – all amenities – nice cozy campsite – narrow streets with plane trees on the sides and on the pitches. The trees sometimes make it difficult to maneuver

Camping municipal Le Patis - chemin du Patis 3, La Roche-Bernard – €15.15/night – all amenities – 200m from the tourist office – we were on one of the camper pitches in front of the campsite

Official motorhome parking - Avenue de la Brière, Guérande - GPS: n47.33389 w2.42083 – 25pl/free – facilities without electricity – 900m to the center – salt pans 3 km from the center

Camping Les Rives de l'Oust - Rue des Tanneurs, Malestroit – 15.5€/night – all amenities – 500m from the center – very quiet campsite – we had a very large pitch – although it was the end of June, few places were taken

Camping municipal de Paimpont - rue du Chevalier Lancelot du Lac, Paimpont – 16.90€/night - office 8.30am to 12.30pm – service point camper near the campsite – all amenities – our corner pitch was also very large

Bassin de l'Est - Official motorhome parking - Quai de la cale, 14600 Honfleur – 240pl/11€ - all amenities included - pay attention! Slightly less than half of the pitches have electricity – we were always lucky and had electricity – very large motorhome where everyone is close to each other – gravel surface but when it rains large puddles form on and between the pitches – ideal for 1 night and for a visit to Honfleur which is located 500m from the camp

We couldn't stay overnight in every place we visited. Below you will find the car parks where we could go with the motorhome:

Le Tréport: is an official motorhome site on top of the rocks, but we only parked there. The price was the same as in a regular parking lot. Quai Sadi Carnot, 76470, Le Tréport – 7€/52pl – facilities without electricity - GPS: n50.05777 o1.36222

Cap Fréhel: parking - Route du Cap, 22240 Fréhel – 5€ for motorhomes

Pointe Saint-Mathieu: free parking at the lighthouse, just past Rue Antre Kéar, Plougonvelin. There can be about 10 motorhomes. Otherwise there are still possibilities in the area. Parking is not a problem in the low season.

E-mail: info@dmcamperreizen.be

Salt has been mined in Guérande from time immemorial. Surrounding the city is a vast grid of salt marshes. Of course the "Fleur de Sel" is offered in many places. We have already taken our stock.

The next day we drive home, where we can look back on a wonderful journey, a true discovery of the different worlds of Brittany.

Summary overnight stays

Aire de camping-car park de Flocques - 1 rue des Pommiers, 76260 Flocques – GPS : 50.034695°, 1.361022° - 30pl/10.78€ – all amenities – on the banks of the “La Manche” – 3km from Le Tréport

Camping municipal Chateaubriand - Rue Châteaubriand, 22100 Dinan – small campsite 48pl/14€ - all amenities (no waste water discharge) – 500m from the center – very helpful owners. From this campsite we went by bus to Saint-Malo. Very easy and direct connection to Saint-Malo station.

Aire de camping-car park de Fréhel - La Ville Oie, 22240 Fréhel - GPS : N 48.650627° W 2.353177° - 45pl/10.40€ - all amenities

Camping Le Point de vue - rue du lac 104, Mûr de Bretagne, 22530 Guerlédan – 18€/night acsi (we only had to pay 34€ for 2 nights tourist tax included) – all amenities – located on the lake – arrival from 2 pm – quiet campsite and friendly owners.

Aire de camping-car park de Cléder - Le Poulennou, Cléder - GPS : n48.691896 w4.119523 – 20pl/12.60€ - all amenities – 50m from the beach – it was wonderful to sit on that beach in the evening

Aire de Camping-Car de Ménéham – Lestonquet, Kerlouan GPS: n48.66952 w4.36161 – 50pl/8€ - all amenities, electricity 3.5€/24h – 900m to the meneham site

Official motorhome parking - Rue de Bertheaume, Plougonvelin - GPS: n48.33792 w4.70742 – 80pl/9€ - all amenities included – 800m to fortress – pitches are spacious enough – little shade
Campsite Locronan - Rue de la Troménie 10, Locronan – €17.10/night – all amenities – 800m to the center – beautiful places, we had a pitch with a sea view

Camping municipal du bois du séminaire - Avenue des Oiseaux, Quimper – 15€/night – all amenities – office closed on Wednesdays – 1,8km from the center

Camping Les Sables Blancs - avenue du Dorlet 17, Concarneau – 20€/night acsi – all amenities – 1.7km from the center – spacious pitches – terraced campsite with stairs between the levels – indoor swimming pool available

Camping de Kerabus - Allée des Alouettes 13, Carnac – €18/night acsi (€19.20 TTB included) – all amenities – nice cozy campsite – narrow streets with plane trees on the sides and on the pitches. The trees sometimes make it difficult to maneuver

Camping municipal Le Patis - chemin du Patis 3, La Roche-Bernard – €15.15/night – all amenities – 200m from the tourist office – we were on one of the camper pitches in front of the campsite

Official motorhome parking - Avenue de la Brière, Guérande - GPS: n47.33389 w2.42083 – 25pl/free – facilities without electricity – 900m to the center – salt pans 3 km from the center

Camping Les Rives de l'Oust - Rue des Tanneurs, Malestroit – 15.5€/night – all amenities – 500m from the center – very quiet campsite – we had a very large pitch – although it was the end of June, few places were taken

Camping municipal de Paimpont - rue du Chevalier Lancelot du Lac, Paimpont – 16.90€/night - office 8.30am to 12.30pm – service point camper near the campsite – all amenities – our corner pitch was also very large

Bassin de l'Est - Official motorhome parking - Quai de la cale, 14600 Honfleur – 240pl/11€ - all amenities included - pay attention! Slightly less than half of the pitches have electricity – we were always lucky and had electricity – very large motorhome where everyone is close to each other – gravel surface but when it rains large puddles form on and between the pitches – ideal for 1 night and for a visit to Honfleur which is located 500m from the camp

We couldn't stay overnight in every place we visited. Below you will find the car parks where we could go with the motorhome:

Le Tréport: is an official motorhome site on top of the rocks, but we only parked there. The price was the same as in a regular parking lot. Quai Sadi Carnot, 76470, Le Tréport – 7€/52pl – facilities without electricity - GPS: n50.05777 o1.36222

Cap Fréhel: parking - Route du Cap, 22240 Fréhel – 5€ for motorhomes

Pointe Saint-Mathieu: free parking at the lighthouse, just past Rue Antre Kéar, Plougonvelin. There can be about 10 motorhomes. Otherwise there are still possibilities in the area. Parking is not a problem in the low season.